The highest mountain of the Julian Alps, the highest peak of Slovenia and of former Yugoslavia. Just 136 metres short of a three-thousander. That's him — Triglav. Having spent an Erasmus semester in Koper in 2020, Triglav had been a clear goal ever since. Back then, covid, missing gear and my post-illness fitness got in the way. The plan came together quickly, but until the last moment it wasn't entirely clear how it would all go.
For the ascent we picked one of the least-known routes — from the Krma valley. As the crow flies it is only a short way from the Vrata valley and Aljažev dom, the trailhead of the most popular and busiest route. One of the main reasons for our choice was the promised variety of scenery along the way. This route also works well as a first Triglav climb for beginners.
Getting there and parking below Triglav
We meant to start at the “Pri lesi” car park and set off early. On the way we were puzzled by cars parked several kilometres before the destination, and soon by no-entry signs. Although the crew of a car driving out assured us it was fine, we soon found out it wasn't. You could drive quite far, but then we ran into a loaded timber truck and harvesters clearing the windthrow from a few weeks earlier. That meant reversing and turning on a narrow forest road resembling a tank range. We ended up in the village of Kurja vas, which had an improvised official car park (free of charge — which in Slovenia says something!). That meant walking 5 kilometres more than planned, on a hard surface at that. And the same again on the way back, of course.
The walk to Dom Planika pod Triglavom
Our route had been involuntarily extended, but we had plenty of time, so it didn't bother us much. Past the logging machines we gradually reached the first hut — Kovinarska koča in Krma, closed and apparently for good. At that moment the valley first revealed itself, ringed by Pršivec, Debela peč and Debeli vrh :D After 5 km we finally reached the Pri lesi car park, where one car stood in the car park and one outside it — more on that on the way back. There is a source of drinking water by the car park, so you can top up without worry.
From the car park the stony path starts climbing, still in the forest and in the shade. We meet the first trail runner already heading down, without even a running vest. The going isn't great — the path resembles a scree field and the stones underfoot sap your strength. It doesn't last long though, and views into the valley, with Kovinarska koča a tiny dot below, lift the mood. Soon the path levels out and we reach a small meadow aptly named “Malo polje”, followed by a bigger one, plain “Polje”. Both are photogenic and made for a short break. Above the big Polje there is another water source of debatable drinkability, as cow pastures lie above it. It serves brilliantly as a cooling pool though — from these meadows on, you generally won't find any shade.
Above the water trough, which sits at the altitude of our Sněžka, is the first junction. We take the shorter path along JK10, but it doesn't matter — both soon merge again at the alpine pasture of Planina Zgornja, where we take our first proper snack break. A little above the hut there is another trough where the paths split again — this time pay attention: one leads to the Konjsko saddle (ideal for Dom Planika), the other towards Kredarica (Triglavski dom). We have a booking at Dom Planika, so we continue towards the Konjsko saddle. From the junction the path climbs hard — the steepest climb of the day.
In places it gets almost climby and, with a heavy pack, you're on all fours. After several minutes in more interesting terrain we reach the Konjsko saddle (2,020 m) with lovely views in every direction. It's a major junction — from here you can head for Kredarica, Dom Planika, the Valentin Stanič hut or Vodnikov dom. The wind is strong, so we don't linger and continue towards our Dom Planika. The last 380 vertical metres remain, but by day's end the energy is fading and the winding switchbacks are no fun. What drives us on is the vision of a below-summit beer and a hot dinner. Above Mokra skala the wind picks up unpleasantly again, but the hut roof is in sight and the legs finish the job on autopilot. Just in time before dinner — during dinner service for half-board guests, staff won't check new arrivals in.
Dom Planika pod Triglavom, 2,401 m
We had booked in advance, because beds are limited and the one thing you really don't want after a full day's walk is to find the hut full. Booking is easy via the Slovenian Alpine Club portal. The hut offers a discount for Alpine Club members, so the night cost just 16 EUR. You pay on arrival (note: no check-in during dinner, 17:30–19:00!), they want to see your club card and a sleeping bag or liner. Without one, they charge a supplement.
We didn't order half board or breakfast — with half board you can't choose your meal and it's rarely a win. Everything can be bought on site, and surprisingly you can even pay by card. The hut has no running water, so drinking water is literally worth gold (4.50 EUR per litre). Beer is an acceptable 5.50 EUR, dinners range from 8 to 17 EUR. We go for the “meat stew” (which is a soup) and goulash with polenta patties. The food is good, slightly under-seasoned, but above par for a mountain hut. The main thing is they have Union Radler Grenivka :D In the dining room we meet the Czechs we parked next to, so there's someone to chat with.
The sleeping room has bunk beds; everyone gets a pillow and two blankets. Slippers are available in the hallway, so you don't have to lug your own up like I did. In July the dorm was hot and humid — two blankets weren't needed, let alone a sleeping bag. As at any hut, I recommend earplugs and an eye mask. Plenty of people want to summit for sunrise, so they pack up at half past three with headlamps blazing and wake everyone else.
The toilets are no longer inside the hut — new ones stand right next to it. They are dry toilets with a stainless-steel bowl and seat. Within five metres you can definitely smell them, but at this altitude you're grateful for anything resembling a bathroom :D
After a relatively short night we wake to a sunny day. We carry our own breakfast; I only buy a coffee that tastes worse than from a vending machine, but something warm in the morning is welcome. It's quite cold outside, so we eat quickly, put on our harnesses and set off towards the ferrata.
To the summit via the Gorjanska pot
We skip the usual busy route (suitable even for complete beginners) via Triglavska vrata and Little Triglav, and instead choose the way through the Triglav notch, where the Gorjanska pot runs. You won't find much about it online, so you don't quite know what you're getting into. Difficulty-wise I'd say B/C, with unprotected climbing around grade 1 (max 1+). Expect a snowfield at the start even in July — at least one pole comes in handy. We didn't meet a soul on the way, which we savoured before arriving at “Wenceslas Square”.
For quite a while there is no marking, but if you head straight under the rock face, the big classic waymark dot eventually appears. That's where the route starts — you climb unprotected for a while, but there are no nasty surprises. After a few dozen vertical metres the cable finally begins, which is reassuring, because a heavy pack tends to pull you down and your steps aren't always sure. The ferrata is fairly easy and fun. In one place you climb a gully with frequent rockfall — a helmet is mandatory. Experienced climbers can leave the ferrata set at home, though I'd still recommend bringing it.
About half an hour from the hut we reached the Triglav notch, where the routes from the west join. Austrian and Italian peaks peek through the clouds. From here a protected path leads through scree all the way to the summit. You now meet plenty of people coming the other way — most descending unclipped, which not everyone will find comfortable; be prepared for it. In the upper part it's no longer a mere walk and you have to think about where you step. There we were glad of the cables again. Over the last few dozen vertical metres the Aljažev stolp appears — along with the ants swarming around it.
After an hour we reach the summit, and thanks to the weather, magnificent views await — along with plenty of people, which was to be expected. Over two days we covered 2,048 vertical metres on just under 16 kilometres. Without breaks and the overnight stay, the pure walking time would have been 5.5 hours.
The way down from Triglav
On the summit we snack briefly, chat with the Moravians from the hut, take group photos and head down — two vertical kilometres of descent await, a small part of it on an overcrowded ferrata. We descend via Little Triglav and the Plezna pot ferrata (A/B). Since the route is extremely busy, the rocks are polished slick, and you keep dodging people climbing up in unsuitable shoes, without helmets and so on. We are very glad we didn't come up this way. The stretch from the summit to Triglavski dom takes a lot of time and cost me a fair few nerves. It's saved by gorgeous views into all the valleys, spiced up by fly-bys of the supply helicopter.
At Triglavski dom I wait for the others; we treat ourselves to one more radler and a local cake, then set off on the endless scree descent in the sun. Luckily the wind blows, so it's not too hot — at first we even walk in windbreakers. We return by a slightly different path, rejoining the ascent route at the familiar water trough. The way down really drags and offers no nice views either. After descending to the Pri lesi car park, another 5 km of hard road to the car awaits — by now my feet in ankle boots are giving up and I'm growing some fine blisters. But we're glad we didn't leave the car in the forest: the car parked outside the official car park from the start of this report had a hefty fine for parking in a national park tucked under its wiper…
Summary and looking back
I'm writing this trip report almost exactly a year after climbing Triglav. In the meantime I've had the honour of climbing the Grossvenediger glacier and other higher mountains (Mangart, for example), so my view is inevitably coloured by those experiences.
I had really looked forward to Triglav and it meant more to me than just another summit. In hindsight I rate the climb very positively, but there are some BUTs. Route choice matters a lot — if I were to climb Triglav again, I would definitely pick a different route, probably from Aljažev dom via the Bamberg route. Generally though, it's better to look at Triglav than from Triglav — so don't miss Škrlatica or Mangart.
Neither the climbing nor the technical side is difficult, and a reasonably trained person will manage it physically. We hauled far too much stuff and had heavy packs. Travelling light you can move much faster and do the route up and down in a single day — though I wouldn't recommend that to anyone untrained: 2,000 metres up and then down in this terrain is not for everyone. To the question “what shoes for Triglav” I answer simply: with a heavy pack, take ankle boots with a stiffer sole; for a one-day ascent, light trail shoes are fine. Either way, choose footwear you have tested and broken in!
Gear for Triglav
Gear: La Sportiva TX5 GTX boots, Deuter AirContact Lite 45+10 pack, Ocún Twist harness + ferrata lanyard, Black Diamond Half Dome helmet, Forclaz MT 100 Comfort trekking poles, Forclaz HL 100 USB headlamp, category 3 polarised sunglasses, hut sleeping bag liner, 2-litre hydration bladder.
Cooking and food: chocolate porridge, jerky, protein biscuits, nut mix, Nutrend energy gels.
Clothing and other: Tilak Stinger Pro hardshell, Simond Alpinism hybrid jacket, Black Diamond Crag Half Finger ferrata gloves, cap, neck gaiter, rain poncho + pack cover + rain trousers, Garmin Fenix 7 watch, power bank and cables, SPF 50 sunscreen, eye mask and earplugs.